Direct Gardening Gardener's Handbook

If any item you purchased from us does not live, for a FREE REPLACEMENT just RETURN THE ORIGINAL SHIPPING LABEL along with your written request within 1 year of receipt. If you are dissatisfied with any merchandise, return it together with the ORIGINAL SHIPPING LABEL within 1 year of receipt for a FREE REPLACEMENT. Replacement guarantee is VOID unless the ORIGINAL SHIPPING LABEL is returned. For a REFUND of the purchase price, RETURN THE ITEM AND THE ORIGINAL SHIPPING LABEL, with the correct postage affixed, within 14 days of receipt.

Orders are filled by item number exactly as received. If a variety is sold out, we reserve the right to substitute one of equal or greater value.

KEEP THE SHIPPING LABEL - The shipping label is your proof of purchase and is needed for your guarantee. Keep this label in a safe location for the year your plants are under warranty. For complete guarantee instructions, see the front cover.

INSPECT YOUR ORDER - Make sure all the items listed on the shipping label, located on the outside of the package, are enclosed. Then check all the plants; if you discover some broken branches or roots simply prune them off. This will not hurt your plants.

REMEMBER YOUR PLANTS ARE LIKELY DORMANT AND NOT DEAD - The majority of the plants we send are in a dormant state in which they dry up and look dead. Many of the plants are bare root meaning there will not be dirt surrounding the roots, nor will they be in pots.

Dormancy is the state that a plant/tree/shrub goes into during the winter in cold climates and is the safest way to transport live plants. We keep our bare root items in climate-controlled coolers to keep them in this dormant state until they are packaged for shipping. Some plants may look droopy on arrival. Give them a chance. Plant as directed and water regularly and the plants will almost certainly revive.

PLANT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE - For best results, plant right away. Thaw out gradually in packing if plants arrive frozen. If woody plants dry out during transit, soak them in water for 2 - 24 hours. Non-woody bare root plants should NOT be soaked. When immediate planting is not possible, store bulbs and perennials in a cool, dry, dark place such as an un-heated garage or basement. Perennials should have their roots lightly moistened. Heel in trees and shrubs (see below). These measures are all temporary and proper planting should be done as soon as possible.

WATER, MULCH AND CULTIVATE - Proper care of your new plants is very important. New plants can be very tender and require additional care until they are established. View the section, "After You Plant" on page 9 for more specific details and make sure your plants receive adequate water.

BE PATIENT AND ENJOY! - Your gardening adventure is just beginning. Allow your plants 6 weeks to become acclimated to their surroundings and begin to thrive before implementing your warranty. Take proper care and sit back and enjoy your new plants!

The soil where you will be planting should be loose and of good quality. Dig the hole and work in some Peat Moss, manure, humus, or leaf-mold with the existing soil. This will add organic matter. If your soil contains high amounts of sand or clay, you will want to add some good black topsoil in addition to the organic matter. A good rule of thumb is 1/3 original soil, 1/3 organic matter and 1/3 topsoil, if the original soil is not of good quality.

To ensure adequate room make the hole 2 times the width and depth of the root system you are working with. Potted plants should have 6 to 8" of space around them. When holes are dug in sod for trees or shrubs, work up 2 or 3' around the plant and keep this cultivated or mulched for good plant growth. The 7-8" of soil at the bottom of the hole should be loose so the roots have plenty of good soft soil to take hold in. Planting depth should be at the same level as they were grown in the nursery. Look for the old soil line on the plant. You would want the hole to be deep enough to keep the original soil line. If you are not able to see the soil line, or you are dealing with non-woody plants, the top of the root system should be just below the soil surface (this information is general; some plants may require more specific depths). DO NOT FERTILIZE NEWLY SET MATERIAL.

Heeling In Trees and Shrubs If you cannot plant nursery stock soon after it is received, it is best to "heel" it in someplace where it will have protection from the sun and wind. This temporary planting will help retard development. Remove all packing material and grass that might harbor mice or insects. Spread out the roots as you would in a permanent planting situation and fill in with pulverized earth and set firmly. Be sure to keep the earth moist until you are ready to plant permanently.

Is My Woody Plant or Tree Alive? If in doubt, do a scratch test. Scratch away a small amount of the bark, approximately one inch up from the base of the plant. If the plant tissue underneath is white or green - it is alive; if it is brown or black - it is dead. Follow the guarantee procedure on the front cover to receive a replacement.

SPRING/SUMMER PLANTING

SPRING SHIPPING begins in March to the warmest climates and progresses North as the weather warms. Until April we only ship dormant plants, then we begin shipping potted items and tender perennials as the weather warms up.

The plants we ship, other than the potted items, throughout the spring and summer are sent dormant. They can be planted even if your area is still at risk for frost. Potted items should NOT be planted until there is no longer a risk for frost.

IF THE GROUND IS STILL FROZEN when your plants arrive, open the package and place them in a cool (preferably dark) location, such as an unheated garage or basement. Keep the rootstock moist, but not wet by misting them with a spray bottle. This will protect them from the elements, but will keep them cool enough to remain dormant until you get the chance to plant.

IF YOU THINK IT IS TOO HOT when your plants arrive, plant them anyway. Some people think if their order arrives late in the spring or into the summer when the temperatures are already hot that it is too late to plant. This is incorrect. When dealing with bare root, dormant plants they can be planted in the heat of the summer. It is important to simply provide enough water to the newly set material. Do not allow newly set plants and trees to dry out after planting. Likewise, spring-blooming bulbs can be planted as usual, even if it's hot outside.

DO NOT FERTILIZE any bare root items until the second year, which is when the feeding roots will be established. In addition, bare root items are too sensitive to be fertilized the first year. Fertilizing too soon could actually cause harm to the root system and possibly kill the plant. If you want to use something the first year, root stimulator could be used.

FALL PLANTING

After preparing the planting site as instructed in the section "Preparing the Ground for Planting", on page 3, remove whatever packing material was used from around the plant. Prune any broken or damaged roots. Spread the root system, of the tree or shrub, naturally and work soil over and around the roots. Set trees one or two inches deeper than they stood in the nursery and set shrubs at about the same depth they stood in the nursery or slightly deeper. Look for the dark soil ring around the trunk. Keep putting in the good dirt mixture, slightly compacting it firmly around the roots, until the hole is nearly full. Fill the hole with water and once the water has soaked into the ground, complete filling the hole with loose dirt leaving a saucer-like depression to retain water. It is best to cover the area with 2" of mulch. DO NOT FERTILIZE until the second year when feeding roots have been established. Fertilizing before can damage tender young roots.

Water two or three times per week throughout the first year, except in the winter when watering should only be done when the ground is thawed. (This is a guideline, depending on the weather in your area; you may need to water more or less often).

Most shrubs should be thinned out at the top to remove old wood. Cut tops back about 1/3 to 1/2.

TREE HYDRANGEA AND TREE ROSE OF SHARON
Strong growing plants such as Hydrangea (Hydrangea P.G.) and Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus Syriacus) may be grown in tree form. Generally, it is best to remove all canes except for the strongest. Then place a stake beside the plant and securely tie the branch to the stake. Keep all side branches cut off and continue to tie the trunk to the stake as it grows. When the trunk has reached the desired height allow several lateral branches to develop. Prune these as necessary to keep the tree from becoming top heavy. The stake may be removed after the trunk is strong enough to support the top. Hydrangea - part shade, grows up to 12' tall. Rose of Sharon - sun to part shade, grows to 15' tall.

TREE PEONIES
In the Orient, Tree Peonies are called "King of the Flowers." Unlike ordinary Peonies they do not die back to the ground each year but form a woody deciduous shrub that will grow three to four feet tall. Tree Peonies should be planted with the graft at the ground surface. The graft is at the top of the fleshy root. Plant in a protected area, in full sun to partial shade, and in good garden soil. Although Tree Peonies prefer a well-drained location, they should be watered well all season. They should be mulched well the first winter after planting. Grows to 6'.

AZALEAS, HOLLY, RHODODENDRONS AND MOUNTAIN LAUREL
These are all plants that grow best in acidic soil (pH factor 4.2 to 5.2). This can be obtained by adding partially-decayed oak leaves and acid peat or Ferrous Sulfate. Plant in a moist, well-drained, light soil with a high proportion of humus. These plants are shallow-rooted and should never be cultivated. Plant them high and maintain at least a 3" mulch around them.

EVERGREENS
After preparing the planting site as instructed in the section "Preparing the Ground for Planting", pg. 3, trim off any injured roots. Set the evergreen about 1" deeper than they had been planted at the nursery. Evergreens are not hard to grow but there are some factors to be considered to help prevent evergreen failure.
WATER - During the first year, evergreens should never be allowed to dry out. Water them 2-3 times per week with long, slow soakings that thoroughly saturate the soil around the roots.
SOIL CONDITIONS - Most soil around the house comes from basement diggings, which will not support plant life. Be sure to work up the soil with organic matter and use a well-balanced fertilizer, after the first year.
SUN - Most evergreens are grown in open fields for their first few years. When they are transplanted near a house where they are in shade for several hours each day, the resulting change may be harmful. It may be necessary to use a good balanced fertilizer (after the first year) to supplement the changed environment.
PETS - Perhaps the most common cause of evergreen failure is injury caused by pets. Damage from pets can kill evergreens in a matter of days.

NARROW-LEAVED EVERGREENS - These may be kept thick and shapely and their growth restricted to suit your purpose by pinching back a part of the tender, new growth. Cut back evergreen hedges whenever the growth is becoming irregular and out of shape.

BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS - Pruning tips of branches before new growth starts will help to keep shrubbery thick. If necessary, head back longer growth. Removal of fading flower clusters will prevent seeds from forming on Laurels, Rhododendrons and Andromedas. This is usually all the pruning that's necessary.

HEDGES
For single row, dig a trench 18" to 2' deep or more, depending on size of plants. For larger shrubs, such as the Russian Olive, it is often more practical to dig individual holes than to set by the trench method. Allow plenty of room between each plant for future development. Space smaller (mature size) plants 10" to 12" apart, larger plants 2' to 3'. The first pruning is highly important. Be sure to taper sides toward top leaving widest part at bottom. Thus, adequate light is assured on lower branches to make good uniform foliage possible.

CULTIVATE - Control weeds with frequent, shallow cultivation. This will produce dust mulch that conserves the much-needed moisture the soil. It also eliminates weeds that compete for moisture.

MULCH - A mulch of peat, grass clippings, manure with straw, marsh hay, or compost may be used instead of a dust mulch for ornamental trees, shrubs and evergreens. Wood chips, of some sort, are usually favorable for perennial plantings as they are more attractive. Mulch will help keep the weeds down and the moisture in, which is greatly needed with new plantings.

WATER - Give plants all the water the soil can absorb at one time. Evergreens, especially, need to be given ample water in late fall before freezing begins. It is important to give plenty of water during dry spells. This will be necessary the first several years for trees. Watering perennials the first year is especially important as well. Do not allow the ground to dry out, but do not let it get soggy unless the plant can tolerate being placed in water (see the perennial chart starting on page 16). Keeping the plants well watered will aid in their root development and help the plant get established before winter. After the first year and the plants are well established, many perennials can even tolerate dry periods. Natures rainfall should be enough water unless there are prolonged dry spells.

FERTILIZE - Trees should be fertilized regularly after the first year. Use one-quarter of a pound of commercial nitrate fertilizer per year of growth. This can be broadcast under the spread of the branches in the spring. Perennials can also be fertilized after they are established, typically the second year. Fertilizing too soon can damage tender root systems. Be patient and wait to fertilize.

PRUNE - The principal purpose of pruning trees and shrubs is to improve the structure. Try to obtain a uniform spacing of the main stems and branches. Thin out the weak growth and eliminate weak crotches. Raise the head of the tree gradually by removing lowest branches; start by carefully pruning the lower branches, about 2 years after you plant. The lower branches should be at least 7 feet above the ground so that you can walk under them. You can keep shrubs shapely and restricted; shrubs should be pruned by removing only the old wood to the ground.

Perennials may be pruned to keep them looking their best. Use sharp shears and cut at a 45º angle. Remove dead, damaged, and weak shoots generally during the active growing season, typically spring or after blooming. Plants will be fuller and bloom more profusely. Ground covers will be thicker and flower more when trimmed back about halfway. Don't be afraid to prune! Your plants will love you!

Plant fruit trees where they will have plenty of sunshine and air. Pruning at planting time consists only of cutting back a few of the branches to balance the roots and top of trees. Light, annual, spring pruning is preferable to heavy cutting every few years. Remove crossed or injured limbs and any branches that rub against each other leaving desired limbs. Try not to cut sharp angle crotches where branches join the trunk, as these might split with large amounts of fruit as the tree matures. Pruning should open up trees so sunlight can color the fruit and give free circulation of air. Rabbits and other small animals can cause substantial damage to young fruit trees during the winter months. Until the 4th year, the lower 18-24" of the trunk should have a protective barrier installed for the winter.

Regular spraying stops insects before they can damage your crop. Apply dormant oil before buds begin to swell. Spray trees with liquid fruit tree spray after flower petals fall. Follow-up applications should be made at approximately 10 day intervals until the harvest nears.

To increase productivity, thinning the crop will be necessary. This will give you much higher quality and larger fruit. For apples and pears, remove one fruit per cluster. For peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots, leave only one fruit per 8-10" of limb space. Thin crop when tiny fruits become visible.

Plant apple and cherry trees 30'-40' apart; apricot, pears, plums and peaches about 20' apart following the instructions in the section "Preparing the Ground for Planting" on page 3.

For best results, all fruit plants should be planted in deep, well-drained soil. They should be placed in a location where they will receive full sun and have plenty of room to grow.

CURRANTS & GOOSEBERRIES
Do best in cool, moist, partially shaded locations. Set in spring or fall. In the spring, they should be planted before the buds begin to grow. Prune any damaged roots and cut tops back to 10". When planting, the lower branches should be just a little below the soil level to encourage them to develop into bush form. Space 4 to 6' apart. Fertilize well when you plant, water as necessary and mulch.

These prefer moist, well-drained soil and require 2 plants for cross-pollination. The old wood should be pruned to thin out the plant and to prevent crowding.

RED AND BLACK RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES
Put roots in a bucket of water while you are preparing the holes for planting. Trim off any broken roots and cut the tops of the plant back to about 6". The hole should be dug large enough to allow you to spread the roots out like a fan; firmly pack the soil around the roots. Plant 3-5' apart in 6' rows. Red Raspberries should be planted 1-2" deeper than they were in the nursery (look for original soil line); Black Raspberries should be 1" deeper. Blackberries should be planted just about as deep as they were at the nursery. The soil should be rich in humus. They should all be planted so that there is free air movement during the growing season. This lowers the humidity and discourages fungus diseases. Never let the ground dry out. Cultivate early in the season and after the plants are established. Toward midsummer, begin mulching with materials such as grass clippings. This will help to keep the weeds down and conserve moisture. If the bushes are left un-pruned, the berries will become a mass of brambles. After fruiting each year, the old canes should be cut out and burnt. A few vigorous new canes should be left for the fruit to grow on the next year. These fruiting canes should be cut back to about 2 ½' in early spring in order to encourage fruiting laterals.

BOYSENBERRIES and DEWBERRIES
These can both be trained on either a 4' tall stake or a 2-3' wire trellis. Plant in light, fertile, well drained, moisture holding soil, with peat moss added in full sun. Boysenberries should be planted 8' apart. Dewberries are planted much the same as the Blackberries. This thorn-less, deciduous perennial fruiting vine, known also as a trailing blackberry, is tender and grown mainly in the South. Plant 4' apart in rows 6' apart, one month before last frost. Young shoots, from the present year's growth, should be kept on the ground and fastened with wire brackets to keep them out of the way. The fruiting canes should be looped over the trellis and cut off after bearing. As the new canes develop, the second year, let them lie on the ground as the first year. After the old canes have born fruit, cut and burn them to protect plants from anthracnose. Also cut and burn any stubs, which do not sprout. From the new canes, 14-15 canes should then be selected for the next season's crop. The new canes should then be tied to the trellis. Mulch to keep in moisture and reduce weeds. If using straw or sawdust, add extra nitrogen. In colder areas they should be covered with hay. Well-rotted manure, or compost should be used as fertilizer in the spring by working it into the soil around each plant, but don't fertilize too heavily or you will have lush plant growth at the expense of fruit.

BLUEBERRIES
These do best in a cool, moist climate that does not have hot, dry winds. The soil should be moist, light textured and contain a high proportion of organic matter. The optimum acidity level is from pH 4.0 to 4.5. It is beneficial to mix soil with liberal amounts of peat moss and Ferrous Sulfate. Plant in spring or fall, using 2 varieties or more for good pollination. Each year 3-4" of sawdust or peat mulch should be applied. Blueberries have shallow root systems, so a shallow cultivation is required. Prune annually AFTER the 4th year, cutting back damaged wood to healthy strong growth.

GRAPES
These should be planted 6' apart in a broad and deep hole. The top should be cut back to 2 or 3 strong buds. They should be planted deep enough to keep the roots from drying out and the hole should be filled with a rich soil or compost. Place the dirt firmly around the roots and water well. They should be kept cultivated through the first season. Once the vines are established they should be mulched with straw, leaves or ground corncobs. A well-decomposed manure is the best fertilizer to use, but do not apply if the vines are making excessive growth because a moderate growth of canes, which mature early, is preferred.

Prune annually while dormant (before buds start to swell). The fruit clusters are formed from the buds on 1-year-old canes. Canes that have borne fruit will not bear again so prune those off leaving approximately four new canes on each plant. To prune properly, 80 to 90% of the wood must be removed.

PLANT JUST ABOVE SECOND BUD AND GROW on a sturdy trellis or fence giving grapes good air circulation to prevent rot and mildew.

STRAWBERRIES
Plant in fertile, well cultivated soil. Set the plant with the crown just at the surface of the soil. Be sure roots are spread out fan-shaped and hang down full length without crowding. For the garden, set them at 2 foot intervals. Mulch them with 3 or 4" of straw in the fall. The mulch can be left on the next season to retain moisture and keep down weeds.

RHUBARB
Plant in rich, well limed garden soil in the spring or the fall. Plant rhubarb divisions 3 feet apart so crown is 1 to 3" below the surface of the soil. Give plenty of moisture, clean cultivation, and feed generously yearly. No stalks should be pulled until the second year and then harvested lightly. The third year and after, they may be pulled over a 6-week period from early spring until early summer. Plants may be dug, divided and moved in either the fall or the spring.

KIWI
Shipped: 2 ¼" pot.
Male in blue bags, Female in pink bags.
Soil: well-drained
Light: full sun to partial shade, likes humidity
Plant: 8' apart in rows 10-16' apart
Fruit: late summer
Fruit Size: ¾" to 1 ½"
Zones: 4-10
Time to Bear Fruit: 3-4 years

Mature Plant: Up to 10 gallons of fruit from 2 vines

This ornamental creeper will quickly cover arbors, fences or trellises. It can be trained to cover an area 8 feet high by 30 feet wide, creating an excellent screen. Must have both male and female for cross-pollination. Your male kiwi, which will supply sufficient pollen for 5-7 female plants, should be placed within 200-300' of any female kiwi you wish to bear fruit. Grows like a grape, harvest September-October, must have a dormant period. Insect and disease resistant.

CARING FOR YOUR PLANTS - When first received, transplant into a larger pot. Keep it inside in a sunny location until plant is stronger, then transplant outside. You'll need to protect your kiwi from the frost in the spring when any new young growth is on the plant, because the crop for that season may be lost. If a late spring frost is in the forecast, cover the plant with burlap or an old sheet. Be sure to provide a support system soon after planting. Kiwi should receive an inch of water a week, either through rainfall or watering. Allowing the soil to dry out in the summer will damage the fruit crop and reduce winter hardiness. The first winter after planting your kiwi apply a very deep (4-6") layer of humus mulch after the soil has frozen.